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Plants, Trees and Flowers
Tips Index
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Appearance of Galls on maples this spring are
probably caused by small mites called eriophyids. The maple
bladder galls found on silver and red maples and the spindle
galls found on sugar and black maple are caused by these
mites. Eriophyids when full grown are no more than 1/50 to
1/100th of an inch long. The galls form when the
overwintering adults emerge from the buds and move to the
lower surface of the leaf blade. The mites irritate the leaf
cells resulting in a hollow cavity that forms on the upper
surface (galls). The mite then moves into the cavity and
produces a new generation. Galls are generally insignificant
to the tree’s health.
TechNotes Volume III, Issue 18, May 4, 2000
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Pruning
of many woody ornamentals is done according to their date of
flowering. A majority of spring flowering plants like
forsythia and dogwood are normally pruned after bloom.
Summer-flowering plants are generally pruned during the
winter when they are dormant. Plants not grown for flowering
are also best pruned during the winter.
TechNotes Volume III, Issue 12, March 23, 2000
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Magnolias
are widely planted in landscapes throughout the southern
U.S. There are 80 species, however the three major species
are Southern magnolia (M. grandiflora), star magnolia (M.
stellata) and sweetbay magnolia (M. virginiana). Magnolias
are used as specimens, screens, hedges, border accents and,
in some cases, container plants.
The ideal
soil for magnolias contains organic matter, is well
drained and acidic (pH 5.0 to 6.5). Most tolerate drought,
and some species tolerate wet soils. Magnolias should be
planted in full sun or partial shade.
Pests of magnolias are not considered to be a major problem. Various
types of scales seem to be the major pest problem. However,
magnolias can become infected with leaf spots, blights,
scabs and cankers (caused by various fungi and bacteria).
Girdling can be a problem with magnolias. Cutting or removing any
circling roots close to the trunk is advised. The root
system of magnolias tends to spread wider than most trees.
For this reason, transplanting magnolias is risky. In
general, plant container-grown trees for best results.
TechNotes Volume III, Issue 11, March 16, 2000
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Determining a tree's growth rate is done by measuring
the distance between bud scale scars. The ring of scars near
the branch tip shows where growth started last spring. By
locating bud scars for the past years, the rate of growth
can be determined over time.
TechNotes Volume III, Issue 10, March 9, 2000
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Forsythia
is one of the most common shrubs found in landscapes. It
produces a yellow flower in the spring immediately
proceeding leaf appearance. Forsythias are adapted to
well-drained soils and transplant well. Spring flowering of
forsythias is associated with preemergent herbicide
applications for crabgrass control.
TechNotes Volume III, Issue 10, March 9, 2000
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Azaleas and rhododendrons are commonly used shrubs in landscapes. From a taxonomic point
of view, all azaleas and rhododendrons are classified in the
rhododendron genus. Azalea is commonly used for native
deciduous species. Rhododendron often refers to species with
large, evergreen, leathery leaves.
Suggestions for
planting rhododendrons include:
Plant on a site
sloping north or east to protect them from drying winds from
the south or west.
Plant
rhododendrons where they will have wind protection.
Many people
think of azaleas and rhododendrons as shade lovers, yet
dense shade can cause decline. Filtered sunlight is best but
morning sun with afternoon shade is satisfactory.
Plant in
well-drained soils or areas.
TechNotes Volume III, Issue 3, January 20, 2000
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Desiccation
is a severe problem on evergreens. This problem
occurs when water is leaving the plant faster than it can
take it up. Often the conditions favorable for desiccation
are sunny mild weather with strong winds in combination with
a cold or frozen soil. Symptons appear as burned or
discolored needles or leaves. Damage is worse on the side of
the evergreen that faces the wind.
TechNotes Volume III, Issue 2, January 13, 2000
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Newly planted trees
are especially susceptible to bark splitting during the
winter. Splitting can occur when a portion of the tree trunk
is warmed from the sun then cools during the evening. Bark
splitting can be prevented by wrapping the trunk with burlap
strips, commercial tree wrap, or painting the trunk white.
These preventative measures reflect sunlight and reduce heat
buildup during the day.
TechNotes Volume III, Issue 1, January 6, 2000
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September is the time to plant spring-blooming bulbs
in the Midwest and Northeastern U.S. The types of bulbs that
can be planted include daffodil, hyacinth, lilies and tulip.
Bulbs planted in mass will provide the strongest impact in
the landscape.
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Newly planted ornamentals and trees
should be watered thoroughly. This is best accomplished
through soaking the soil around the plant through trickle
irrigation.
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Newly planted herbaceous and woody plants
need to be watered deeply and frequently during the current
stressful weather pattern. Watering new plantings is best
done by slowly trickling water from the hose to the base of
the plant (or using a soaking hose). This slow wetting
allows for a better soaking of the soil around the plant.
Watering with higher volumes causes runoff and a less
efficient watering. Although it is possible to over water
plant material, under very dry weather conditions, the
chances of over watering are considerably less than those of
under watering.
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Norway, red, and sugar maples
can exhibit symptoms of leaf scorch, foliar browning, leaf
drop and poor annual twig growth. There are multiple causes
for these symptoms. Primary causes include trees growing in
compacted soil conditions, trunk injury, environmental
stress and girdling roots. During heat and drought, symptoms
are most likely to be expressed.
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Leaf scorch
symptoms appear as a drying up or browning of the leaf
margins. Scorch appears after periods of unfavorable weather
conditions such as drought, high temperatures or hot windy
conditions.
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The poinsettia is a plant native to Mexico. It was first
noticed by Joel Roberts Poinsett, the first U.S. Ambassador
to Mexico (1825-1829), near Taxco, a town south of Mexico
City. Impressed with its brilliant red color, he sent some
of the plants home to his plantation in Greenville, South
Carolina. Poinsett then distributed the plant to his many
horticultural friends. A German taxonomist gave it the name
Euphorbia puicherrima, but its common name, poinsettia,
remains the accepted and popular name. The poinsettia has
evolved into a symbol of Christmas. With sales of more than
52 million plants each Christmas, it ranks number one
nationally in sales for all flowering potted plants.
Poinsettias are adapted to bright sunny conditions. During
the holidays, when possible, place the plants in the
sunniest exposure in your home. This is usually near a
window. Be careful not to let the bracts touch the cold
windowpanes, since freezing temperatures can cause damage.
Ideally, daytime temperatures should be in the 70-72 F range
while nighttime temperatures should not fall below 65 F.
Poinsettias, when initially established and grown in
commercial greenhouses, were maintained under relatively
high humidity. Thus, avoid areas where dry air originates
such as ventilating ducts, and fireplaces. Placing a bowl or
saucer filled with water near the plant will add humidity
around the plant. When buying a poinsettia, avoid plants
with flowers. Source: html extension circular, University of
Nevada, Linn Mills.
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